Fashion
4 Mins

The Tuxedo born again

Published on
17/5/2025
Contributors
Maria Leoni
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Reclaiming the Tuxedo

A Study in Power, Fluidity, and Redefinition

The tuxedo has always fascinated me. For decades, it has existed as a uniform of power structured, precise, and unapologetically masculine. When a man puts on a tuxedo, the world calls it confidence. When a woman wears one, it’s rebellion. Somewhere between those two truths, I found inspiration.

I no longer see the tuxedo as a symbol of control or hierarchy. I see it as a canvas for reinterpretation  a garment that deserves to evolve with the times, just like the people who wear it.

My approach has always been to deconstruct and rebuild not out of defiance, but out of curiosity. What happens when you take something born from tradition and rebuild it with softness, grace, and emotion? The answer, I’ve found, is magic.

The Art of Redesign

When I began redesigning tuxedos, I didn’t want to just “feminize” them that word feels too limiting, too binary. Instead, I wanted to infuse them with duality. To merge sculptural tailoring with movement, to let a sharp lapel coexist with a draped silk back, to allow curves and cuts to flow together rather than compete.

I experimented with fluid fabrics satins, silks, and matte wools, that catch the light differently depending on how the wearer moves. There’s power in that softness. There’s confidence in fluidity.

My favorite pieces are the ones that seem to blur lines altogether. A blazer that hugs rather than constricts. A trouser that dances rather than stands still. It’s this play between control and release that feels deeply human to me and deeply modern.

Power, Reclaimed

For too long, the tuxedo was about exclusion. It symbolized entrance into a club one that demanded conformity, silence, and posture. But when I wear one of my own designs, I don’t feel like I’m borrowing something from the masculine world. I feel like I’m reclaiming power on my own terms.

To me, modern confidence isn’t about rigidity it’s about presence. It’s knowing when to stand tall and when to let go. My tuxedos are built around that philosophy. Each stitch, each fold, each asymmetrical line is an invitation to feel rather than perform.

It’s why I often photograph my pieces in movement mid-turn, mid-laugh, mid-breath. Because confidence is never static.

The Feminine Edge of Structure

There’s something profoundly beautiful about contradiction about letting the body’s natural softness coexist with the sharpness of tailoring. I design for that moment of tension, where discipline meets ease.

I remember working on a tuxedo jacket lined with a delicate lace interior completely invisible from the outside. It was my quiet statement: power doesn’t always need to announce itself. Sometimes it whispers.

When someone wears one of my tuxedos, I don’t want them to feel “masculine” or “feminine.” I want them to feel whole. That’s the real luxury to inhabit your identity without the need to define it.

A Modern Language of Design

Reinterpreting the tuxedo isn’t about nostalgia or rebellion. It’s about evolution. Fashion should reflect the rhythm of its time and we’re living in an era that demands authenticity, inclusivity, and emotional intelligence.

Every time I see someone style a tuxedo in their own way with bare feet, with jewelry layered over the collar, with hair undone, I feel that shift. It’s not about breaking rules anymore. It’s about rewriting them.

The tuxedo has always been a language of confidence. I just chose to rewrite its grammar.

Final Thoughts

For me, the tuxedo isn’t just clothing it’s a mirror. It reflects where we are as a culture: no longer divided by gender or formality, but united by expression and self-awareness.

My redesigned tuxedos are a reminder that power and softness are not opposites they’re two sides of the same truth. And when you wear something that embodies both, you don’t just look strong. You feel free.

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